: Greek Gastronomy
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According to Greek Mythology, the island of Cyprus takes its name from the goddess Aphrodite, which makes the island her own special abode. I have never been to Cyprus, though I have heard of its natural beauty, and I do have a number of Cypriot friends. Toronto has a sizable Cypriot community, and over the years, I have had a chance to learn something about their ways and means. I have also had a chance to sample some of their foods.
Q: What would you like my readers to know about Cypriot cuisine?
A: Cypriot cuisine is shaped by the island's Mediterranean climate, its geography, culture and history. It is a unique blend of Greek, African and Middle Eastern dishes.
Q: If there was one dish that you would associate with Cyprus, what would it be?
A: Kolokasi- A root vegetable (colocasia esculent) rather like a sweet potato cooked in a casserole with pork and celery in tomato sauce. They say that Richard the Lionheart had kolokasi at his wedding feast in Limassol in 1191.
I think Cypriot Mezedes is considered the most famous dish or combination of dishes. On Cyprus, Mezedes is a rich selection of appetizers and savouries in up to 20 saucerlike dishes! They include: fresh and pickled vegetables(cucumber and "kapari" - pickled caper stems), "elies tsakistes" ("crushed" green olives with a dressing of lemon, garlic, herbs, coriander seeds and oil), "Lounzta"(smoked and marinated loin of pork) and "Chiromeri" (marinated, smoked and pressed ham), "octapodi krassato"(octopus in red wine), grilled "halloumi" (local cheese made from sheep's milk), "tallatouri" (yogurt with cucumbers, garlic and mint), "melitzanosalata" (aubergines with spices), "tashi" dip (crushed sesame seeds - tahini paste, garlic, lemons and olive oil), "hummus" (made from yellow peas with olive oil and parsley), "Pourgouri Pilafi" (Bulghur - Cracked Wheat Pilaf Prepared from hulled wheat), "Cyprus salad" (a mix of fresh tomatoes, lettuce, coriander leaves, rocket leaves, cabbage, cucumbers, onions and black olives). "Koupes" (cigar shaped wheat cases with meat filling), "Halloumi Cheese Ravioli", "Karaoloi yahni" (snails in tomato sauce), "Tavas"( meat with onions, vegetables and spices, cooked and served in a clay pot), "Afelia" (small pieces of pork cooked in red wine and crushed coriander seeds). "Kleftiko" (lamb baked in a clay oven). "Koupepia" (rice cooked with onions, tomatoes and herbs, then wrapped in vine leaves).
Q: What are your favourite Cypriot recipes (i.e. appetizer, main course, dessert) and do you cook them?
A: Difficult question... Almost all Cypriot recipes are among my favourites. If I am forced to narrow down my choices, they would be as follows. For an appetizer I would prefer to eat Halloumi cheese grilled over a charcoal fire and when at home my mom prepares these Halloumi toasted pita bread sandwiches . As a main course, I would choose barbequed Pork Souvlaki Kebabs and Sheftalia (minced pork in caul fat) served in envelope shaped pita bread. Also, "Moujendra" - lentils and rice (mixed) with fried onions (a must!!!), "Souvla" (large chunks of lamb, flavoured with fresh herbs, threaded onto a spit and grilled over charcoal), and "Ofton Kleftiko" (Lamb in the oven): this dish got its name from the word kleftis (robber), and they say that in the past mountain men would cook their stolen meat in sealed underground ovens. For dessert, "Lokmades" - Cinnamon and Honey Fritters, and "Daktyla" (Almond filled finger shaped pastries).
Q: What are some characteristically Cypriot ingredients and flavourings? Are there any specialty products that are uniquely Cypriot in origin?I’d like to thank the Consul General for taking the time to answer my questions. As mentioned, he was also kind enough to provide a recipe for Koupepia, which are a Cypriot version of stuffed vine leaves (Dolmades). I reproduce the recipe just as he provided it:
A: The main ingredients used in Cypriot cuisine are lamb, chicken, fish, vegetables, fruit, yogurt, cheese and of course different spices: coriander seeds, oregano, thyme, cinnamon, pepper, caraway, parsley and garlic. Halloumi cheese originates from Cyprus. It is often served as a starter, grilled or fried (in slices as part of a cooked breakfast), in salads, and stuffed inside ravioli.
Q: Tell us about some noteworthy grape varietals which are unique to Cyprus and are used in wine/spirit production?
A: Wine has been produced on Cyprus for thousands of years – there’s proof of Cypriot winemaking dating back to 2000BC. It is believed that Cyprus was one of the first countries to cultivate the vine and lay out vineyards. One of the best known and oldest wines is "Commandaria", a sweet dessert port-like wine made from the grape varieties Xynisteri and Mavro. One of the legends says that Richard the Lion Heart conquered the island especially for "Commandaria" and proclaimed it "the wine of kings and the king of wines." It is also used for Holy Communion in the Greek Orthodox Church.
Q: Do you have any anecdotes relating to Cypriot cuisine or food customs which stand out in your mind?
A: Cypriots eat a lot, especially during Christmas and Easter. I remember there was a year that over 1000 people visited the hospital emergency department suffering from stomach complaints caused by overeating. It’s now a national pastime exacerbated over any holiday period, and especially at Easter.
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